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Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garçons
The final countdown for the Met Gala begins as designers and attendees are in preparation for the long awaited red carpet benefit. Japanese designer, Rei Kawakubo will be the first living designer since 1983 to be the sole subject of this year's annual Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute's fashion exhibit.
The Japanese label Comme des Garçons translates to the French line "like some boys". The theatrical designs present an avant-garde approach to fashion. Past Kawakubo runway highlights include the 2001 Spring collection's use of camouflage, bubble wrap and packing tape and the carnival-inspired 1994 Spring collection called “Kaleidoscope".
Challenging the conventional, the Spring 2017 ready-to-wear show resembled a sculpture exhibit rather than a runway. With the inspiration behind the collection left for interpretation, Kawakubo created wearable 3-dimensional structures with overwhelming capes, oversized collars and ornamental headdresses.
Bridal Fashion Week
Designers brought something new and something old to the 2018 Bridal Fashion Week runway. The collections of Oscar de la Renta, Lela Rose, Marchesa and Sachin & Babi aired elegance and romance for both the traditional and modern bride.
Co-designers Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim paid tribute to the late Oscar de la Renta and his love for his gardens. The Spring 2018 collection featured floral-inspired prints created with lace, tulle, beading and embroidery. Among the timeless gowns was a feminine jumpsuit with a floral printed bustier.
The Lela Rose theme "Love is Love" brought a collection of strapless gowns, modern pantsuits, and conservative shawls. Designing beyond the traditional bride, designer Lela Rose said, "It's part of the changing rules of bridal".
The Marchesa collection brought something new adding hints of black detailing to the all-white collection: including a black velvet belt, hair bow, intricate chandelier earrings and a trailing ribbon choker that ran into the train of the gown.
The Sachin & Babi collection combined old elegance with modern sophistication. “It's a little Twiggy and a little mod, but there is a method to the madness", said designer Babi when discussing the duo's inspiration.
A Pastel Palette
Warmer days bring lighter hues. Hermès, Burberry, Valentino, Céline and Chanel Spring collections are bringing personality and calm color to our personal runways.
Cable-knit sweaters, laced frocks and trench coat dresses walked the Spring Burberry runway. The collection's color palette of sky blues and stone grays came from British sculptor, Henry Moore, known for his abstract monumental sculptures.
Inspired by the 80's silhouette, designer Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski expanded on the over-sized shoulders and high waisted pants and skirts. The Spring Hermès collection reflected pastel tones of pinks, greens and yellows.
Fascinated by the romance of medieval art, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino produced a fairy tail collection of delicately embroidered daywear. Piccioli's Spring 2017 palette featured blush pinks, canary yellows and the signature Valentino red.
The Spring 2017 Céline runway was filled with boxy tailored jackets, flared pants, and bold accessories. Designer Phoebe Philo produced monochromatic looks in white, black, brown, and red to create a vision of contemporary minimalism.
Designer, Karl Lagerfeld called the Spring Chanel show "a mad linguistic paradox". The collection featured 86 ensembles playing on pastels, neons and neutrals.
Dressing for Spring With a Winter Breeze
Chilly mornings and lingering winds seem to not have coordinated well with the calendar's seasonal changes. Thankfully the Spring 2017 collections of Burberry, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino, Céline and Stella McCartney have given us inspiration and hope for these cooler days.
Take Advantage of Sweater Weather: Designer Christopher Bailey of Burberry reimagined the traditional cable knit sweater by transforming it into a layered one-shoulder shawl. Bailey’s vision translated into a flattering silhouette despite the unconventional lines of this architectural look.
Love the Jumper: One of many essentials for early Spring weather, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia of Oscar de la Renta share their love for cocktail tunics and day-to-night jumpers in their Spring 2017 collection.
Layer Up: There's no ignoring the low evening temperatures and blowing winds. The Valentino Spring 2017 collection featured a variety of floor-length trench coats to play on designer Pierpaolo Piccioli's romantic vision of complimenting lengthy gowns and flowing skirts.
Embrace a Lighter Color Palette: The Spring 2017 Céline runway was filled with earth-toned hues of white, blue, black, and brown. A soundtrack of city traffic and children’s voices played through the venue to emphasize the collection's transparency of a day in the wearer's life.
Relax in Looser Fits: Designer Stella McCartney took to light fabrics and relaxed fits with oversized jumpers, tops and trousers. A combination of full-coverage in light fabrics helps our Spring mentality embrace the last of this Winter weather.
Goodbye Cold, Hello Spring
With the arrival of Spring, we celebrate our favorite floral-inspired looks from the Spring 2017 collections of Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, Marchesa, Fendi and Adam Selman.
Designer, Demna Gvasalia, brought bold patterns and fabrics to the Balenciaga runway. Models walked in oversized silhouette jackets and brightly colored spandex heels that transformed into full coverage pants.
Designer, Sarah Burton flew with her studio team to Shetland Isles, Scotland with the hope to gain inspiration for the Spring 2017 Alexander McQueen collection. Scotish scenery, wild flowers and deserted beaches carried through to floral embroidered jeans, flounce covered skirts and wool knitted dresses.
Inspired by the changing stages of the sky, the Marchesa 2017 Spring runway was a palette of lilac, light blue and blush hues. These evening gowns fell into a realm of feminine fantasy with the use of layered organza, intricate beading and floral-printed embroidery.
Utilitarian stripes, athletic sock-like boots and silk lingerie-inspired pieces filled the Fendi Spring 2017 runway. Designers Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi mixed elements of sporty and floral to produce a unique novelty collection.
Adam Selman's collection is a combination of looks inspired by the disco era and illustrations from American Denim: A New Folk Art by Peter S. Beagle. The overlaying 70's themes resonate through the collection's full denim jumpsuits, wide-leg trousers and use of funky floral prints and D-ring belts.
Zac Posen Fall/Winter 2017 Collection
Last Wednesday night, I was invited to preview the brilliantly gifted Zac Posen's Fall/Winter 2017 collection. A combination of fantasy and sophistication, the collection featured A-line gowns, modernized pantsuits, floral prints, and leather-inspired fabrics.
Known to be inspired by the traditional woman , Posen shared, “This season I married my signature structures with the paradox of fluidity. Referencing the mid-1940’s, I wanted to give a message of elegance and hope".
Luxe fabrics flowed in deeply saturated tones including midnight blues, deep wines, and dark burgundies. Attention to detail is seen through Posen's use of velvet ribbons, flounce and beading to create structured, yet feminine, three dimensional silhouettes. Here are a few of my favorite pieces from the Fall/Winter 2017 collection.
London Fashion Week: Hues of Blue
Shades of blue drowned the London Fashion Week runway. Burberry and Roland Mouret were two favorite designers integrating the crisp hue into their seasonal color palette.
Inspired by a British sculptor Henry Moore, chief creative officer Christopher Bailey designed Burberry's guest invitations to be written on light stones to enhance the aesthetic of the Spring 2017 collection. Signature looks included navy stripes, white lace and a twist on classic sophistication. Burberry's first see-now, buy-now show allowed guests to shop looks in all stores immediately after viewing the collection on the runway.
The Fall 2017 Roland Mouret collection extended past the traditional feminine silhouette to embrace the variety of women's body types. Designer Roland Mouret incorporated a variation of fabrics to create a sense of diversity. The combination of knits, fabrics, hues, patchwork and detailing left guests eager to pre-order looks straight from the runway.
NYFW Day 7: Feathers and Fringes
Designers took texture to the New York runway for Day 7. Thom Browne, Bibhu Mohapatra, Michael Kors and Marchesa added definition to their designs through plumes, tassels, embellishments and fringe.
The Thom Browne collection featured touch-sensitive ensembles designed with a variety of fabrics, furs, ribbons and fringes. Browne designed the collection to replicate a frozen pond, styling models with platform heels inspired by the look of an ice-skate.
The Fall/Winter Bibhu Mohapatra collection highlighted Mohapatra's love for the traditional feminine silhouette and dramatic evening gowns. His nude chiffon gown covered with intricate beading and ostrich feathers emphasized the romantic aesthetic of the collection.
Aside from the outstanding number of well-known models, Michael Kors invited individuals of varied shapes and sizes to walk in his show. The collection itself was diverse featuring leopard dresses, traditional pant suits, fur overcoats and fringe-covered evening wear.
The Fall/Winter Marchesa collection featured color and texture this season. Inspired by Old Shanghai glamour, designers Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman constructed bold evening gowns with layered chiffon, draping bows, bright tassels and colored plumes.
NYFW Day 6: Enchanting Ensembles
In the spirit of Valentine's Day, designers showcased their own vision of modern romance through these captivating gowns. Carmen Marc Valvo, Alice and Olivia, Badgley Mischka and Naeem Khan were a few who embraced the spirit of the holiday.
Inspired by the Costa Rican sunset, Carmen Marc Valvo designed his evening-wear collection with vivid shades of violet, orange, and fuchsia transforming earth-tone hues to represent the disappearing of light into the horizon. Valvo showcased the collection by projecting images of a live photoshoot onto the walls for guests to view.
After being introduced to Salman Rushdie's novel, "The Enchantress of Florence", designer Stacey Bendet was inspired by the narrative to create the Alice and Olivia Fall/Winter collection. Among the Renaissance-inspired gowns, bold textures, and statement prints, the show revealed combined elements of the novel's historic settings, Florence and the Indian Empire.
Designers, Mark Badgley and James Mischka expressed that the Badgley Mischka brand stands for "glamour and fantasy" despite the occasion. This theme is recognizable on the shared runway with both the evening-gown collection and introduction to their formal ready-to-wear line.
Closing the show with a recording of poem "Human Family" by Maya Angelou, the Naeem Khan collection aired a theme of "beauty in diversity". Khan effortlessly weaved alluring leopard-printed gowns, floral overcoats, and sequin fringed boots into his Fall/Winter Collection.
NYFW Day 5: Contrasting Hues
Bright whites and dark hues dominated the New York Fashion Week runway on Tuesday. Contrasting designs by Oscar de la Renta, Proenza Schouler, Lela Rose and Zimmermann were some noticeable impressions.
Oscar de la Renta designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia debuted the Fall/Winter collection aside their own growing label, Monse. The de La Renta collection featured bold monochromatic pieces, classic silhouettes and traditional cigarette pants.
The Lela Rose collection aired a sense of "lightness" with pastel hues, feminine silhouettes and her signature floral prints.
The Proenza Schouler collection featured cut-out dresses layered with leather, chiffon and knit fabrics. The brand showed a sophisticated edge through leather D-ring belts, fur-lined overcoats and the pairings of graffiti-printed tees with classic ankle-length pleated skirts.
Designer of Zimmermann, Nicky Zimmermann, discovered vintage photographs of female university students playing cricket after the World War I era and was inspired by the strength and delicacy of women in the 1920's. Drawing from that inspiration Zimmermann's collection showcased oversized pinstripe suits, lace flounced dresses and tall leather boots.
NYFW Day 4: The New Pantsuit
Designers are breaking boundaries by reconstructing the traditional business suit to fit individual style and personality. Prabal Gurung, Altuzarra, Victoria Beckham and Verdad are a noticeable few giving business formal a new definition.
The Prabal Gurung collection inevitably made a statement transforming classic oversized sweaters, blazers and dresses using unconventional textures, statement prints and bold fabrics. Rather than displaying these pieces in his finale, the models walked the runway in political slogan tees reading "I am an immigrant" and "Revolution has no borders". Gurung also used his platform to break boundaries in the fashion industry by inviting size 4 models to walk in his show.
Designer of Altuzarra, Joseph Altuzarra, conveyed the inspiration for his Fall/Winter collection drew from the brand's "complex" clients. Fighting traditional trends while keeping a sense of modernity, the collection features color-blocking looks, military lace-up boots, velvet pantsuits and colonial-inspired overcoats.
The 2017 Fall/Winter Victoria Beckham collection is the epitome of the new pantsuit. "I've never really worn a blazer with a skirt" said designer Victoria Beckham when explaining her creative process. The collection featured oversized blazers paired with collared sheer dress shirts, long chiffon skirts and slouchy boots for a "relaxed" take on business formal.
When designing his Fall/Winter collection, designer Louis Verdad believed "The vision for fashion is more relaxed". The Verdad day-time collection of oversized pants, sweaters and overcoats followed a palette of navy, sunflower yellow, and neutral hues.
NYFW Day 3: Opt for an Overcoat
Designers are transforming the traditional overcoat into the accessory of the season. Alexander Wang, Son Jung Wan, Taoray Wang and Georgine are bringing fur, leather, suede and knit jackets to the New York Fashion Week runway.
Alexander Wang, known for staging his shows in unconventional venues, showed his collection at the historic 1900’s graffiti-filled RKO Hamilton Theater in Harlem. The almost all-black collection featured street-style inspired suits transitioning into stretch denim pants, high-waisted shorts and embellished leather jackets. Many of Wang’s looks played on the oversized printed blazer to be featured as a trench coat.
Son Jung Wan’s Fall/Winter collection featured exaggerated silhouettes in bold combinations of printed and textured fabrics. Inspired by music and style icons of the 80’s, Wan embraced layers of heavy furs and velvets to add a sense of dramatics to the runway.
Inspired by a modern twist of the last imperial Chinese dynasty, the Fall/Winter Taoray Wang collection aired elements of both sensuality and sophistication. A unique twist of delicate lace under military-style jackets, Wang’s collection met the expectations of her worldly female clients.
With a color palette of dark violet, military green and black, Georgine’s Fall/Winter collection featured metallic fabrics, leopard print, fur and a taste for rock-n-roll. Designer, Georgine Ratelband's inspiration reigned from the idea of “permanent hotel dwellers, those glamorous creatures who have called the world’s most interesting properties home”.